Choosing the right pigment for eyebrow tattooing is crucial to achieving the desired look and ensuring client satisfaction.
Here are 5 steps to help you make the best choice:
Firstly, we should know the different eyebrows technique.
Microblading brows: It is a manual tool with the blade to do the brow tattoo. This one always last about 1-2 years.
Hairstroke brows: It is the machine work with cartridge. You can see the needle move very slowly. The speed of your hand movement should be slow and speed slower than 4 volts. You will find the airy lines, so it is also called pixel stroke brows. No matter you are a beginner of permanent makeup industry or you just start use machine from microblading, you can learn this technique.
Nano brows: It is a machine work with cartridge too. but you will find the speed of hand movement is fast. It is conducted at 5~6 volts. and you will find smooth and soft lines. This technique is only for advanced artist. They know how to control the direction of stoke, and have the light and steady hand to make sure it will not go too deep and the line will not shake.
Micorblading, hairstroke brows, nano brows are three different technique.
Secondly, we should know the different pigment formula.
The pigment is divided into 3 types of formula. Water based, powder based, oil based.
Oil based, also called inorganic semi cream. so when dropping the pigment into water, it will fall rapidly. Because it is large particle of pigment molecules. The solvent has more glycerin inside. It is easy to pick up by microblade. When you use this blade or round needle, you can do microblading or microshading. Can it be used with machine? Yes, but you have use the diluent. It will last 1-2 years.
Powder based, also called hybrid liquid pigment. so when dropping the pigment into water, it will fall to the middle and then spread. Because it is medium particle of pigment molecules. The solvent has tiny glycerin inside. It is easy to apply by pmu machine. It is perfect for hairstroke brows. It will last about 2 years.
Water based, also called organic liquid pigment. When I drop the pigment into water, it will spread fast in the top of water, and then it will make the whole bottle in brown colors. Because it is nano particle of pigment molecules. It is one pass stroke by PMU machine. Just do one time, the color will stay and last long than 3 years. It is the best one for nano brows.
Thirdly, How can we choose the right pigment for our technique?
Oil based, is also called inorganic pigment, It is for the artist who always do microblading and microshading.
Powder based, is also called hybrid pigment, it is the combination of organic and inorganic formula. It is the right one for PMU beginners and who has been doing microblading for long time and just start to use machine. You can do smooth lines but always heavy hand. When you use this pigment, it will not be easy to faint.
Water based, also called organic pigment. It is the top one for advanced artist. You can use it do nano brows, hairstroke brows, powder brows. Whip lightly and do shallow movement on the skin, just one pass, the color will last for 3 years. And you will not have retention issue. BUT ATTENTION! It is not so easy to handle for newbies, it is so easy to implant to skin. To avoid going too deep and turning blue, we need more practice.
PS1: What is the difference of inorganic and organic pigment? There is a discussion on the topic.
- Check the CI number: Find the formula on the bottle or MSDS! all of CI number begin with 77, it is inorganic. Only 77266, others are not, it is organic. They are mixture of 77 and other numbers, such 77491,56110etc, they are hybrid pigment. Here I have card to share. All of the numbers are for inorganic.
- Check the texture: Apply the pigment on the skin. If the color is very oily, it is inorganic formula. If the color is fluid, it is hybrid or organic. Why? Inorganic ingredient is large molecule, you have to use glycerin as a solvent.
PS2 :Why inorganic and organic knowledge is important?
Retention is the key.
Inorganic pigment, is the iron oxide formula and it is oil-based. So when you use these colors, it will be shorter color retention. Also this formula is not good for oily skin. The color will not stay. And the color after 1 year, it will have reddish issue. This formula will never have bluish problem. When use this pigment, avoid the color too warm. Neutral and cold color is the best choice.
Organic pigment, is water based, and it has a crucial ingredient: carbon black. The color will be implanted to skin very quickly. So when we use the color, it will have long time high retention. It is not good for newbies. If too deep into skin, the color will have blue/ash issue. It will never have reddish problem. When use the pigment, avoid the color too cold. Neutral or warm color will better.
Fourthly, Know the skin colors and tones
Skin Color:
We divided the skin color into pale skin, medium skin,dark skin.
Fitzpatrick 1-2.
If the client is very pale, your best bet is to go for a light brown or blonde color.
Fitzpatrick 3-4
Most of Asia people comes to this range. We will use medium brown, such dark brown ,golden brown, it is the most popular color.
Fitzpatrick 5-6
Very dark complexions have a less choice of lip colors. It should be very black and darkest brown color. So the color will show and keep.
Skin tone:
As a general rule, your skin tone is fairly easy to define and will help you pick your lip pigment with ease:
Identify your undertone:
- Look at the veins on your wrist. If they are blue, you have cooler, pink undertones. If they are green, you have warmer, yellow undertones. If they are both blue and green, you’re a lucky neutral who can get away with pretty much anything.
- Wear gold and silver jewelry at the same time. Check which color is more suitable for you. (not which color you prefer)
1) If others say that you wear silver, and platinum jewelry to better your skin, then you have cool-toned skin.
1) Wearing gold jewelry looks good on warm skin.
2) If you feel good on both hands, then it is neutral tone.
- See whether it get tanned or get sun-burnt.
Lastly, Know the pigment colors.
Let's see the hairstroke pigments first. When we use the colors, we want the pixel stroke and no easy to faint. and the
color will not easy to turn blue. It should not have so much carbon black in side. So this collection is more warm and these collection is REACH compliant pigment. Here is the certification from German laboratory.
Let's do the color swatch one by one.
- Latte Brown: Neutral brown with subtle yellow undertones, suitable for various skin tones and hair colors. Can be used as a base or liner, adding soft color and freshness to eyebrows, without reddening or bluing in later stages, maintaining a long-lasting natural effect.
- Sandy Brown: Natural and warm brown, suitable for clients seeking a soft effect. Suitable for eyebrows of varying shades or gradient effects.
- Toffee Brown: Warm brown with subtle yellow undertones, suitable for various skin tones and hair colors. Can be used for ombre eyebrows or lines, adding natural color and warmth to eyebrow makeup.
- Espresso Brown: Deep and full coffee tone, suitable for clients who prefer strongexpressiveness. Can bring deep contours to eyebrows, suitable for those seeking deeper colors.
- Amber Brown: Warm and vibrant light brown, suitable for those pursuing a natural and bright feeling. Provides light color to eyebrows, suitable for makeup seeking a soft impression.
Now let's see what the best of best for advanced pmu artist. which is one pass pigment. These pigment is water-based. It is fast implantation and last 3 years.
6 colors will be shared for nano brows.
- Black Brown: Mostly used for strokes and darker power brows. It is suitable for customers who are old aged, darker complexion and hair colors.
- Dark Brown: Universal color. Suitable for people who has darker brown hair. Add some skin color to neutralization to avoid red.
- Deep Brown: Intermediate brown color. It will be a beautiful color to mix with dark brown or dark ash brown.
- Golden Brown: Universal color. Yellow and Ash based. Very nice and natural brown color.
- Pace Brown:Yellow based.Good for white skin tone. Used as main color of soft strokes.
- Taupe: Promote the formation of collagen, and stabilize colors. It can be used for blending the colors. Or use on ladies with blonde hair
Here are 6 colors which you can use for hairstroke brows, nano brows, and ombre brows.
These collection, we have got the good feedback from our customer.